The history of North Georgia's Fannin County
Cherokee Indians lived on and controlled the land in north Georgia now known as Fannin County long before the first white settlers appeared around 1790. White settlers came from the north, crossing the Appalachian Mountains near Fort Louden in Tennessee. They followed the Tennessee River south where they took the Ocoee River (Tennessee) -Toccoa River (North Georgia) to the wide, fertile valley between Cohutta mountains and the Blue Ridge Mountains. The Cherokee called it their “Enchanted Land.” The northern settlers liked it too and the Indians pretty eventually accepted the newcomers. Being completely enclosed by high mountain ranges, the Cherokee and the new white settlers of the southern Blue Ridge Mountains lived a life of remote pleasure—hunting, fishing, farming and trading. In several places in the Toccoa River, north of Blue Ridge, are rapids built of a rock in a V-shape formations. The Indians used these fishtraps, as they are called today, to herd and catch the plentiful trout that traveled the Toccoa River.
Originally, the mountains held no appeal to early explorers. The terrain was too steep, was difficult to farm and had no access. People were content to “let the Indians have it,” but as word spread about the beautiful valley, settlers continued to arrive. When gold was discovered in North Georgia in 1828, everything went crazy. The fortune seekers arrived in droves. Much of Fannin County was included in the Georgia Land Lottery of 1832. That year Union and Gilmer Counties were created from Cherokee County. By 1838, hundreds of Cherokee Indians who had called North Georgia their home for well over a thousand years were herded into makeshift forts. They were forced to move west on the “Trail of Tears.”
Georgia’s 106th county was created in 1854 from portions of Union and Gilmer Counties. Morganton was the first county seat. Colonel James Fannin, for whom the county is named, was a hero in the Texas War for Independence. In March of 1836, he and 400 of his soldiers were massacred, just a few miles from the Alamo.
Agriculture was the main business of Fannin County in those early years. Farmers grew products that had to be taken to a mill to be “cracked” before use. That’s where the term “cracker” came from. The mill became an important part of their lives. They gathered there to socialize since they lived so far apart. The women enjoyed exchanging recipes and stories, while the children played. After the Civil War cotton became a mainstay. In the 1920’s, however, a long drought and boll weevils forced the farmers to start diversifying their crops. When copper was discovered in 1853, McCaysville, which was in the heart of the Copper Basin, began an extensive mining industry. As the nation grew, the demand for lumber products grew. The rich forests of the Blue Ridge Mountains were leveled.
New communities and towns were springing up all around Fannin County. With the coming of the railroad in 1887, Blue Ridge grew and prospered the most. The railroad could carry passengers and supplies to the new frontier, while hauling away raw materials from the mountains to the lowlands. Entrepreneurs, investors and tourists flocked to North Georgia in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. The “Blue Ridge Highlander” describes it best:
“Mineral potions were the rage during the era and Fannin County had pure
mineral springs. They had rejuvenating powers for all your ailments. Most
felt it was a combination of good water, fresh air, wholesome foods and the
lack of stress offered by the beautiful landscapes and the laid-back mountain
lifestyle.”
Opinions haven’t changed much over the years. Folks are still visiting the North Georgia Mountains for the same reasons. As attention was on Blue Ridge during this time, hotels and inns sprang up on both sides of the tracks, as well as restaurants, dry goods stores and stables. Prominent homes were built along with schools and churches. This growth required Fannin County to eventually move the county seat to Blue Ridge for convenience in 1895.
Up the tracks from Blue Ridge is Mineral Bluff. It, too, was known for its healing waters and spa retreats. Dial was the first community formed in the most remote areas of the mountains. It sits along the banks of the Toccoa River and is a farming community which hasn’t changed a bit in the last 100 years. Epworth, also a farming community, is mostly residential today. It’s located between Blue Ridge and McCaysville. The famous Fightingtown Creek runs through it. Morganton, the original county seat, lies on the northwestern shore of Lake Blue Ridge, which was created in the late 1920’s. McCaysville, sits on the GA-TN State line. Its sister city, Copperhill, Tennessee, is adjacent. In fact, you can straddle the line while standing in a grocery store parking lot. Although the mines have been shut down for years, it enjoyed its heyday and is now mainly residential. The Blue Ridge Scenic Railway, which started in 1998, brings passengers everyday to shop and dine.
Around the turn of the century, Fannin County was a luxury resort and spa destination for many who lived in Atlanta and Knoxville. It was so popular that the railroad had to add extra passenger cars to meet the demand of tourists. Real estate was booming and the future looked bright for developers, especially in Blue Ridge. “Visions for a great mountain city were born out of raw forest, mineral springs, iron rails and a lot of capital investments.” In 1906, however, the railroad moved its machine shops further up the line into Tennessee and the progressive momentum of Fannin County started to decline. The mineral mining was running out and by the 1920’s, 80% of the ancient forests were lost to loggers, land clearing and disease. Copper mining alone defoliated 60,000 acres. The county was in trouble.
Luckily, a group of concerned citizens and President Theodore Roosevelt got together and inspired a nationwide conservation movement. Congress passed legislation for preserving public wilderness. The United States Forest Service took over this responsibility. Under its protection and management, the region of the Blue Ridge Mountains has returned to its former state and is flourishing. It is home to the Chattahoochee National Forest. The Toccoa Ranger District in Blue Ridge oversees the security and management of the forest areas in Fannin County.
Another savior for Fannin County was the creation of Lake Blue Ridge. Although the purpose in building the lake and dam was to control mountain flooding, it also provided much needed hydro-electricity and recreational benefits. The vacationers returned and many built summer houses.
Fannin County is rich in history and legends. During the Prohibition years Fannin County enjoyed a brisk moonshine business. For many farmers it was their only source of income. Moonshining has continued through the years. A major operation was found and destroyed by the ATF in 1983. In the 1940’s there was a doctor named Thomas Hicks who had a home for wayward women in McCaysville. Pregnant girls went there to stay until their babies were born, when the kindly doctor would quietly offer the babies to prospective paying parents. It was a “no questions asked” adoption agency which ran for almost thirty years.
The Iron Rail opened up the southern gateway to the Blue Ridge Mountains over 120 years ago, conquering the most remote regions. In 1986, the Super Slab, a four lane highway, was completed to open the area to today’s travelers. The drive from Atlanta to Blue Ridge is easy and beautiful, taking less than 90 minutes. The railroad, which had its ups and downs, changing hands until it became unprofitable and closed in the 1960’s, is now alive and well. Starting in 1997, volunteers helped to clear the old tracks which had become overgrown with brush and damaged during the 30 years it sat idle. On May 23, 1998, the Blue Ridge Scenic Railway opened for business and has become a huge success. It runs from the historic Depot in downtown Blue Ridge to McCaysville. The three hour roundtrip travels along the banks of the Toccoa River with grand views of rustic cabins and north Georgia nature. People are flocking once again to charming north Georgia towns like Blue Ridge, Morganton and McCaysville in Fannin County. Cabin rental companies stay busy all year as city-slickers from Atlanta come to escape the hustle and bustle of the big city. The passing of new drinking laws is helping to build the economy even more, according to the Fannin County Chamber of Commerce. Many quality restaurants and retail establishments continue to open to serve the burgeoning tourist trade. The future looks bright for Fannin County and North Georgia!